The Walled Bodhi Tree- part 1

TEMPLE UNDER A CLOUD?

A year ago, this night, the good people of Bodh Gaya, the place where the holiest Bo-tree sprouted, tucked themselves [or their significant others] into bed, only to be awakened by a rude shock in the early hours of July 7, 2013.

Some explosives that had been placed inside the Mahabodhi Temple and the great Buddha statue had gone off. Bang! Sleepy little Budha Gaya found itself splattered across the daily newspapers- it had earned its place on the 'terrorism map'.

It's a curious case that is still debated ad nauseum in the tea shops and in parlours, with sighs of resignation and bemused shakes of the head. What an incompetent bunch of terrorists these chaps were. They struck in the early hours of the morning, when there wasn't any real bustle around. The devices didn't do more damage than extremely loud crackers: splintered a pane or two, scratched at the surface of the stone. No casualties at all.

The explosions caused fissures in the fragile balance of harmony, not only among the general population, but amidst those who ostensibly promote peace and non-violence. Buddhism’s holiest shrine may now glitter with some 290 kilograms of pure gold atop its dome, but its welcoming arms have been amputated, a literal ‘Berlin Wall’ policed by surly policemen, have alienated the Bodhi tree from the people of Bodh Gaya.

Editor of the e-zine ' Bo-tree news' Anagarika Dhamma Priya minces no words, “Fear stalks the ordinary folk living around the temple. Fear of the police. The overwhelming presence of policemen outside and inside the temple is unnerving for many visitors. For the ordinary person without a robe, sitting in contemplation or meditation is difficult, because it is quite likely that you will be accosted by some policeman asking you to move on. Moreover, people certainly aren't happy the way the district administration and the police has used the bogey of terrorism to demolish shops, clear out the vendors, and even intimidate young men from certain communities. There have been no protests because most people are fearful of being locked up under some draconian law or the other”

 Of course there was both fear and resentment among the young men, says a young hotelier. “Who isn’t scared of the police? The police bully youngsters in the name of ‘security’  now. Bodh Gaya was never like this. All of us Hindu, Moslem, Buddhist, rich or poor would visit the Mahabodhi temple. Today, ask how many locals  visit regularly? It doesn't matter whether you are Hindu or Muslim, the police have created such a havoc that Buddha now rests behind the Berlin Wall of ham-handed security. Before, we sit till late at night talking and chatting in the small tea shops near the temple. Now, they pack up by eight pm to avoid the unwelcome attention of the Bihar Police.”

RTI activist and Buddhist monk, the venerable Priya Pal Bhikkhu from the National Coordination Committee of Buddhist organizations in India (NCCBOI) mentioned two separate incidents where the Bihar police at the Mahabodhi have manhandled Buddhist clergy. “One incident involved a monk, and another rather ugly one flared up between the policewomen and a Tibetan nun from Nepal. The matter was later sorted out, but it has shown that the Bihar police are inept at handling visitors. That is why NCCBOI have been campaigning for a properly trained National security force to take over at the temple. The Mahabodhi is not the Taj Mahal, it’s not a mere historical monument, it is a functioning place of worship for lakhs of people across the world,” says Bhante Priya Pal.


The Shanti Sadbhawna Samiti, a collection of over 100 citizens from various affiliations, has planned to observe the 7th of July as a black day, with a day- long fast and a candle march. Anagarika Dhamma Priya wondered whether the peaceful protest would be allowed, or would they face police violence, but others, like Gaya YMCA secretary Prince Dwyer believes that the State government will not let police violence happen, because it would scare off whatever tourists remain.

Boorish Policemen keep devotees away?

Says Jose Kariakat of the faith-based NGO Jeevan Sangam, “One cannot just brush aside an incident that has affected the lives of practically every resident of Bodh Gaya, and continues to do so. Mischievous elements tried to make capital of the explosions last year, and it took the concerted efforts of several people and organizations such as the Bodh Gaya Inter-faith Forum, International Buddhist Council, Gandhi Peace Foundation, All India Bikkhu Sangh, PUCL and so on to ensure that the fire of distrust did not burn in our villages.”


Chief Monk of the Mahabodhi Temple Rev. Bhikkhu Chalinda points out that none can fault the State government for protection of the temple.



Chief Monk of BTMC Ven. Chalinda

He believes that pilgrims should learn to adapt to the circumstances. “People want to forget the incident of 7th July, it was not such a big incident; there wasn’t any major damage. We will have a peace prayer meeting to be attended by the abbots of 50 monasteries from Bodh Gaya, as well as members of the inter-faith forum. The DM of Gaya will inaugurate and address the gathering.”

There is a lot of scepticism as to what value Gaya's new district magistrate would add to the mix. "It's a state-sponsored function, nothing more," a resident told me. The secretary of the BTMC- the Bodh Gaya Temple Management Committee Nangtse Dorjee is staying away from controversy, currently on holiday in his native Sikkim.

 Bhikkhu Chalinda will take no part in the candle-march however. “I have to perform my duties as Chief Priest of the Temple,” he reminds us.